Servant of Eden — Keeper of the Issyk Nature Reserve

Isa Bikaev is not only a principled inspector of the Almaty nature reserve in the Issyk district, but above all a philosopher, writer, and a man who can give an answer to any question.

In the center of the protected zone lies the beautiful Lake Issyk, which was formed almost 10,000 years ago as a result of a mountain landslide. The landslide created a natural dam 300 meters high. The lake’s altitude above sea level is 1,756 meters. The reserve covers 16,550 hectares.

Isa checks every tourist entering the reserve and warns them about following the rules in the protected area. May is the month of renewal, when the young of the animals living here are born, so one of the main rules is to observe peace and quiet.

Just above the lake, inside the gorge, there is a unique mudflow protection dam.

In the most picturesque spot, deep inside the reserve, stands the inspector’s old cordon house.

In 2004 there was an attempt to dismiss Isa Bikaev from his position as reserve inspector illegally. But journalists who knew this principled and honest inspector well immediately stood up in his defence. Justice prevailed: that same year the dismissal order was cancelled.

“— The house was written off two years ago,” Isa says. “I was ordered to take out all my belongings and demolish the house. But since there are no documents for the new cordon, they still can’t liquidate the written-off one.”

“For the first eight years I repaired the house myself, now nothing helps anymore.”

“I only stay at the cordon in summer, and in winter I temporarily live in a cottage next to the reserve’s borders. But it doesn’t belong to me.”

“Now, with the arrival of new management, I hope the situation will improve.”

On the tree hangs a yellowed portrait of Stalin. “Stalin was a leader sent by God, but he was presented to people as a tyrant.”

“About ten years ago they brought me four puppies whose parents were border guard dogs. My friends told me to pick any one, but I decided it would be better if he chose me. When they were put on the ground, three puppies huddled together and started whining pitifully, while the fourth came up to me and calmly lay down at my feet. That’s how I got Akbar — my faithful helper and pack leader.”

Isa now has three dogs who feel their owner’s love and are deeply devoted to him. Besides dogs, the Issyk inspector once raised a wolf as well.

Isa took Akella, a three-month-old wolf cub, away from a certain “so-called nature lover.” He removed the chain from the wolf and released him into the forest. He never imagined the animal would return, and as he grew up, would become a loyal friend like the other dogs. “Sometimes we would arrange dog-and-wolf concerts,” Isa recalls. “Akella tried to bark like a dog, and Akbar and the others howled like wolves.” After two years, nature took its course: Akella went into the forest in search of a mate and a new life.

“I can go without food, but not without spiritual nourishment. I always need information.”

Now in his house in the village of Bolek.

“Most books are informational trash, but to find that out you still have to read them. For many years I have not found anything truly new in books — all the new editions are simply well-forgotten old things. In other words, it’s the same content, only expressed in different conceptual ways.”

“Now I know that I know nothing. The creative process of cognition is always dynamic, in motion, and this process is eternal. No matter how much a person learns, they will always only be at the beginning of the path.”

“In 1989, during the filming of the movie ‘Knyaz Serebryany’ (‘Prince Serebryany’), I met Igor Talkov. I remember we argued because of our different beliefs, our conversation remained unfinished and I simply walked away. A few days later Igor found me himself, offered me a cigarette and said: ‘You were right.’ I answered: ‘It’s not that I am right — truth can’t be mine or yours. It simply exists as it is, as the truth.’ That conversation influenced Igor’s later work — he changed, and so did his songs…”

“In 1989, during the filming of the movie ‘Knyaz Serebryany’ (‘Prince Serebryany’), I met Igor Talkov. I remember we argued because of our different beliefs, our conversation remained unfinished and I simply walked away. A few days later Igor found me himself, offered me a cigarette and said: ‘You were right.’ I answered: ‘It’s not that I am right — truth can’t be mine or yours. It simply exists as it is, as the truth.’ That conversation influenced Igor’s later work — he changed, and so did his songs…”

Fresh air means healthy sleep.

The atmosphere here is as cozy as at home. Every day duty is assigned in the kitchen, and someone is responsible for cooking.

Others do not sit idle either; they help with household chores.

Or they practice yoga and…

…meditation.

While the meditation was taking place, snow was falling.

But for Isa and the others, snow is no obstacle to swimming in the mountain river.

Meltwater from the mountains is considered beneficial.

In the evening, after dinner, you can play the guitar.

Get a healing massage…

…and play mafia.

And at the end, listen to Isa speak about the meaning of life. A listener’s question: “Does love exist?”
“It exists in those people who are born of love. And it will never be known by those who are born of lust,” Isa says. “Love is when a person is not attached and loves without claiming anything. When he doesn’t think he is making someone happy by loving them; when it is simply happiness for him — to love. Then a person himself becomes love, he doesn’t fall into dependency and doesn’t make another person dependent on him. Love seeks itself; there is no coercion or calculation in it, and only then is it true love.”

Saying goodbye, Isa shares his view regarding the publication of this photo essay: “If this material will be useful to someone, I don’t mind if it is published…”

The original version of this material was published on the Voxpopuli.kz portal (before its closure in 2023). Author Karlygash Nurzhan restored the text and photos from her personal archive to preserve documentary and historical materials.